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Severity & Collar

There are many benefits to the unlined collar. Most often we talk about these benefits as they apply to the collar roll. Yet another no less important, although not as visually observable on its face, benefit is the inside of the soft unlined collar that sits on your neck. Most guys today do not wear unlined collars. Most wear cheap and stiff collars. These collars are uncomfortable to wear and so they buy their collar a size or 2 too large. Of course most guys today complain that wearing a tie makes them feel like they are "choking". "I can't breathe" they protest. "It's uncomfortable!" These are, of course, the complaints of babies. Nevertheless it is true that their stiff, brittle collars are less comfortable than ours. That is why they buy them too big. It is rare they complain about it being too tight while also having the collar the proper size. They usually are complaining while the collar is too large. Again, the complaints of babies.

With the soft collar as it sits on your neck, you don't need to oversize to have a comfortable fit. You can feel more comfortable with the collar more snug. The fabric hugs and moves with your neck while not making you into a rigid pole. This snugness is key to capturing a clean, direct, ordered, severe modernist look. This is not the first time I have mentioned this, I have written before about the aesthetic story of the presentation of man in our style and the importance of tying one's tie tight here. There is nothing quite like a tight, snug collar set around a clean shaven man's neck. The look of a functionally fitting shirt (appropriately roomy) coming to a point in a snug seal around the neck, appearing to be held together with the knot of a tie, allowing the direct, clean shaven face (personality) of the man to emerge from under this uniform is modernist order and severity in the image of man.

As for this outfit in the photo above, we have a beautiful light yellow university stripe - almost so faint it is imperceivable. It is a perfect yellow for a summer university stripe. Paired with the university stripe is a 1990s Polo Ralph Lauren tie. 1990s or 1930s? Good question. This is the beauty of the Polo ties from that period. Incredible patterns, rich beautiful color combinations and wonderful fabric. Last but not least, we have the navy blazer. I love the green, yellow and brown as they interact in the tie and shirt. Such a delightful, unique, subtle, rich yet almost dusty interplay.

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